Bouncing down the rocky singletrack with the Umpqua River roaring more than a few hundred feet below, I slow to stop on a wide open corner with the cliffs falling straight down while exposing a breathtaking view.
This far eastern section of the 79-mile Umpqua River Trail is known as the Dread and Terror Segment, named by a couple of rangers more than 100 years ago when they imagined how difficult it would be to fight a wildfire in this rugged landscape.
They had no idea someday mountain bikers would be rolling down it, keeping a closer eye on their speed than the stunning panoramic views.
For sheer nonstop OMG views, the Umpqua River Trail rivals any mountain bike trail in the Northwest, and while I’ve only nibbled at part of its massive offerings, it’s difficult to imagine a more picturesque segment.
Or a more challenging one.
Beginning at Lemolo Lake, the trail starts with a long, fast, heart-racing downhill section that’s more the terror aspect for me.
Sure, it’s a fun ride, but it’s hard not to stop often just to soak in the amazing views and snap a few photos. I’m just lucky it’s mid-week without a lot of traffic to worry about.
Eventually this long descent takes you back down to the river long enough to cross it on a bridge that survived a serious assault from a fallen tree, bruised but not beaten.
Then you climb as the river again falls far below.
From then on, the dread slowly creeps in as this 13-mile segment challenges your technical skills as much as your fitness level. It’s hardly a downhill joy ride.
It’s so easy to get lulled into a groove on some needle covered sections, but eventually the trail transforms into some rocky, water-filled sections — even in the middle of a dry summer.
For an intermediate rider there are a lot of unrideable sections, and for the entire stretch, keeping your attention focused on the trail is paramount with some rockslide areas that will suck your front wheel — and possibly the rest of you down the mountainside if you’re not careful.
You’ll also hike your bike over a number of huge downed trees that are too big to cut through, so they only have notches carved in for a safe passage through.
In some places you could dip your toes in the icy Umpqua, or take a shower from moss-covered miniature waterfalls cascading from above.
Eventually you can hook up with roads that can bring you back to civilization, if not more peaceful landscape that will ease the Dread and Terror, but never erase the memories.
Time to ride
