If you are expecting an article about washing and waxing your bike – check out last week. This week is still about wax and lubricants, but not for your car, paint or carbon fiber.
Bike lubrication. Chains are the main topic in all the bike world, but you still need to lube all points that move. What else moves? Pivot points on brakes (both lever and caliper if you still use rim brakes), pivot points on derailleurs and pivot points on pedals. Really? Yes. Lubrication makes those parts move more smoothly and freely.
I was riding with a friend. He complained that his pedals had become ‘stiff,’ meaning that when he tried to clip out (clipless pedals) it took more force. I simply said, “lube the pivot point.” He did not believe me. In fact, he said something about that not being a ‘thing,’ and it being ridiculous. My response? “OK.”
Yes, I respond that way often. I am not trying to force you to do something. I will provide input. If you reject it, I am fine with it. You are an adult and get to make your own decisions. Well, I rode with him at some point in the future. Guess what? Yes, you guessed it. He excitedly told me that he had lubed the pivot point, and his pedals were working perfectly – like new. He was surprised and excited to tell me.
Of course, I was not surprised. Well, not surprised that it worked … I was surprised that he tried it after his initial response. I am assuming he is like most of us; when you hear something that seems way ‘off’ or something you did not expect it takes a bit of time for you to process it. He is a smart guy, so I suspect he considered it over the next few days and thought that it made sense and could not hurt.
All that said to say – lube where you need to lube (pivot points), and do not lube in other places. And wipe off excess. No need to attract dirt. I better say it – not all pivot points need the lubing I am speaking of. For example, full suspension bikes have pivot points and applying the lube I list below is not a good idea. Follow manufacturers guidelines. Do not lube indiscriminately. Please know what you are lubing and why.
I knew a person that knew to lube her pedals but lubed the springs (SPD). She was stunned when I told her that was doing nothing but attracting gunk. Someone had shown/ told her wrong and she was following that path. She is smart so once I explained it – she was on the correct path.
So – I will go in more detail. Always read manufacturers guidelines and follow them. They made it, and they know how it should be maintained. If uncertain, let the bike shop handle it. Here is a quick run down.
- Pivot points on full suspension bikes – read manufacturers guidelines. They vary greatly and the details of maintaining them are specific.
- Derailleurs, pedals and rim brakes. Pivot points can benefit from lubrication. Sometimes I use liquid emulsion wax and sometimes light oil lube. I like drip wax because it does not collect gunk. I like a light lubricating oil because it always works and is often easier to direct into tight spots and it soaks into those tight spots with ease. Your choice. Or, be like me and vary it. Regardless, apply where needed and wipe off excess. You do not need it getting onto other parts (brake pads, rims, etc).
- Disc brakes. Short answer is if you do not bleed your own brakes, leave this to the bike shop. Sometimes the pistons can get sticky. After all, we ride through gunk and then wash it well (some of us). Some manufactures say to use a drop of the same mineral oil on the pistons that is used in the system. Some have a specific assembly grease for that part. Thus, the recommendation of – take it to your local bike shop unless you are a mechanic. If you are a mechanic make sure you use the recommended product in the recommended manner. Why? Because regardless of what you use – you do not want to get that on your brake pads. Lubrication is important but only in areas that need lubrication. Your brakes work because there is friction, thus the last thing you want to do is get some lubrication on your brake pads or rotors as this can hinder or eliminate the braking capacity of the system. Not only is that the antithesis of what they are for … it can be dangerous. Let me say it again. This might be best left for your shop to handle.
Finally, regarding Chain Lubes. I love the new lubes. Generally, I think you cannot go wrong with any of them; but as I have said before, Squirt is my choice. Yes, I have tried the others. I thought they would be better, but alas, not for me.
Yes, I tried the hot wax method. In fact, I was hot waxing in the ’80s. Yes, wax in a coffee can and made a double burner on the stovetop to use it. It was way more ‘involved’ back then mainly because there were not quick links, so you had to ‘break’ your chain to hot wax it. Eventually I gave it up and went back to petroleum lube; but even then, I leaned to the ‘dry’ lubes. I tried hot wax again with this new generation. Usually, I still hot wax the first lube of a new chain. After that, a liquid emulsion wax does the trick. I might be giving up a half of a watt. So be it.
What do I like about waxing my chain?
Well, it is certainly not the cleaning and preparing the chain for the application of wax. That part is a pain. That junk they put on it at the factory is thick. Once the chain is prepped (cleaned) the act of hot waxing is fairly easy. It just takes more equipment and time than a liquid emulsion wax. I think that is the case with most things – the act is easy but preparing for the act is the time-consuming part.
What I like about having a waxed chain is that it stays clean, it does not attract dirt, it works well, it does not throw lube all over your rear triangle and cassette, and when you touch the chain … your hands are not black and greasy.
That is one reason I stick with Squirt. I have tried the other ‘more high profile’ wax lubes. They tend to leave a black film. I thought I moved away from that with wax? I understand, that ‘dark’ part is an additive that makes it faster/slicker and I might have saved another 1.236 watts going with those brands. I am good. Thanks for letting me know though.
Yes, I know. It is easier now. Silca makes a Strip Chip that eliminates the need to clean your chain prior to waxing. More specifically, a new chain. A used chain that has had petroleum lube and has dirt on it – still needs to be cleaned. It is easier to start with a new chain. I have not used the Strip Chip, but it would eliminate much of the frustrating part of the hot wax system. Eliminating frustration is a good thing. I will certainly try it next time I wax a chain … and I think that might be coming soon.
Yes, there are times and cases where wax is not the best choice. Or just not your preference. For me and my riding style – wax appears to be the ticket. I do not ride lots of muddy, grimy, wet, gritty conditions. My friends might say that is not accurate. I did not say I do not experience those conditions, but I do not go out for rides that are entirely filled with the above. I do not cyclocross.
As an aside I do enjoy watching cyclocross, but riding my bike through a sand pit and running with my bike holds no attraction to me. In fact, my friend David went to his first cyclocross race and as we watched the riders and their bikes coated in mud making obscene squeaks and grinding noises (the bikes, but also the riders at times) as they rode through mud, sand pits etc. he simply stated, “remind me to never buy a used cyclocross bike.” Hah, golden statement. The local bike shop must sponsor the huge sand pit, because no one else would benefit from you riding through that. I digress, a final paragraph.
Based on the conditions I experience; wax is good. I often hot wax to start (looking forward to trying the Strip Chip) and Squirt is my choice from that point forward. It is easy to apply, lubricates well, lasts a reasonable amount of time and is cost effective. Do I need to apply it more frequently? Most likely, yes. It is easy, so no sweat.
Lubrication and Wax. People have strong opinions. Share them.
